France's once-thriving restaurant scene is on the brink of collapse, leaving behind only a handful of high-end establishments catering to the super-rich and fast-food chains. The crisis has been exacerbated by changing consumer habits, rising wholesale food prices, and perverse tax rules.
In the 1970s, business and politics were often conducted over lengthy lunch meetings, but this tradition is now largely extinct. Instead, Gen Z and millennials are opting for healthier eating options at home or grabbing quick meals on the go, rather than dining out.
The pandemic acted as a catalyst for the decline of traditional restaurants. With fewer customers returning to office lunches and many taking advantage of luncheon vouchers that can be spent in supermarkets, the loss of midday trading business has been devastating. Moreover, online shopping, combined with restrictions on driving and parking in urban centers, has further squeezed the industry.
The French government's response to the pandemic has also had a negative impact. By showering restaurateurs with grants during lockdowns, while other businesses received interest-free loans, many took the money for granted and failed to adapt their business models to post-pandemic realities. Instead of investing in healthy eating options, they opted for reheating mass-produced pre-cooked frozen food from wholesalers at lower labor costs.
The result is a crisis that's changing the face of France's hospitality sector. Restaurants are closing at an alarming rate, with 25 going out of business every day, according to Franck Chaumès, president of the Union of Hospitality Trades and Industries. The only businesses bucking this trend are those offering high-end cuisine to the affluent and fast-food chains.
As one restaurateur noted, "I used to serve 75 covers every lunchtime, and we had at least two home-cooked dishes of the day... Now, customers who used to eat out every day came maybe once or twice a week." The shift towards healthier eating options has also led to a decline in sales for restaurants that offer traditional French cuisine.
To combat this crisis, the UMIH has proposed rationing new restaurant openings and licensing only professionals qualified in cooking and accounting. However, so far, these measures have been met with resistance from the industry. As one journalist noted, "The French government showered restaurateurs with money to stay shut during lockdowns... But business never really returned to normal after the pandemic."
With the rise of home-delivery services like Deliveroo and Uber Eats, which often ferry food prepared in "dark kitchens" without a dining room attached, it's clear that traditional restaurants are struggling to adapt. As one restaurant owner noted, "It's a catastrophe for our profession... Some 25 restaurants are going out of business every day."
In the 1970s, business and politics were often conducted over lengthy lunch meetings, but this tradition is now largely extinct. Instead, Gen Z and millennials are opting for healthier eating options at home or grabbing quick meals on the go, rather than dining out.
The pandemic acted as a catalyst for the decline of traditional restaurants. With fewer customers returning to office lunches and many taking advantage of luncheon vouchers that can be spent in supermarkets, the loss of midday trading business has been devastating. Moreover, online shopping, combined with restrictions on driving and parking in urban centers, has further squeezed the industry.
The French government's response to the pandemic has also had a negative impact. By showering restaurateurs with grants during lockdowns, while other businesses received interest-free loans, many took the money for granted and failed to adapt their business models to post-pandemic realities. Instead of investing in healthy eating options, they opted for reheating mass-produced pre-cooked frozen food from wholesalers at lower labor costs.
The result is a crisis that's changing the face of France's hospitality sector. Restaurants are closing at an alarming rate, with 25 going out of business every day, according to Franck Chaumès, president of the Union of Hospitality Trades and Industries. The only businesses bucking this trend are those offering high-end cuisine to the affluent and fast-food chains.
As one restaurateur noted, "I used to serve 75 covers every lunchtime, and we had at least two home-cooked dishes of the day... Now, customers who used to eat out every day came maybe once or twice a week." The shift towards healthier eating options has also led to a decline in sales for restaurants that offer traditional French cuisine.
To combat this crisis, the UMIH has proposed rationing new restaurant openings and licensing only professionals qualified in cooking and accounting. However, so far, these measures have been met with resistance from the industry. As one journalist noted, "The French government showered restaurateurs with money to stay shut during lockdowns... But business never really returned to normal after the pandemic."
With the rise of home-delivery services like Deliveroo and Uber Eats, which often ferry food prepared in "dark kitchens" without a dining room attached, it's clear that traditional restaurants are struggling to adapt. As one restaurant owner noted, "It's a catastrophe for our profession... Some 25 restaurants are going out of business every day."