Slowing Down the High Speed: A Winter Journey Through the Swiss Alps to Italy
There's no feeling quite like speeding out of a tunnel, the rush of air and flood of light. Trains are becoming an increasingly popular mode of transportation for travelers, with a 7% rise in UK train travel expected by 2025. For this writer, slow-train travel is the perfect antidote to the fast-paced world we live in.
Our journey began on a crisp winter's day, as we set off from London on a slow-train adventure through the Swiss Alps and Italian lakes. With five countries to pass through and almost entirely scenic daytime trains, it promised to be an unforgettable experience. As we chugged out of the tunnel and into the French countryside, the snow-covered fields and hills stretched out before us like a monochrome photograph.
The train rumbled on, passing through stations and platforms with ease, crossing borders without any hassle or fuss. The passport control process was a breeze, with immigration police barely giving it a second thought. "You've traveled a lot," one officer remarked, with a wry smile and a nod to his German shepherd. We replied with a simple "legally", just to cover our backs.
As we entered Switzerland, the scenery shifted dramatically, with vertiginous gorges, frothing rivers, and snow-capped peaks unfolding before us like an oil painting come to life. The train climbed steadily up into the Alps via the famous Gotthard "spirals," offering breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains.
At Göschenen, we stopped for lunch in the picturesque former garrison town of Andermatt, now a chic ski retreat. The snow was thick and the air crisp, with a monochrome quality that made us feel as though we'd stepped into a photograph. Our meal at Biselli was excellent, with glasses of Swiss Ticino red wine adding to the convivial atmosphere.
As we continued our journey, Italy beckoned in the distance, its clear skies and terracotta valley towns stretching out like a warm invitation. At Chiasso, we crossed into Italy for the first time, enjoying a welcome drop in prices for cappuccinos (from 5CFH to €2) and a sight of one of Italy's most famous lakes up ahead.
Our final stop was Lake Como, where we caught the last of the light with an easy stroll around the perimeter of the lake. The ornate street lamps lined the water's edge like pearls, while in the distance, the funicular up to Brunate shone with a string of golden lights that dangled down the slope like lost jewelry.
The next morning, we packed our bags and took coffee at the station before heading into Turin, one of Italy's underappreciated cities. We stumbled upon a vibrant student city, where 1920s art deco neon signs clung to 18th-century baroque buildings that housed vintage shops run by students dressed as if they were in the 1990s.
We rounded out our first night with an apéritif at the classic Caffè Università, its frayed edges and charmingly outmoded daily buffet a testament to its enduring popularity. The next morning, we caught the TGV back to Paris, drifting in and out of sleep as we took in one last glimpse of the Italian Alps.
As we reached our Parisian pit stop, day was folding in on itself, and soon enough, we were slumped back on the Eurostar, flanked by bags of clinking wine bottles cushioned by crushed panettone. The Channel tunnel loomed ahead, leaving all that light – and the beauty of the Swiss Alps – behind us.
Travel details:
* Interrail passes: £255 for youths, £339 for adults, £305 for seniors (under-12s travel free)
* Return Eurostar from London to Paris starts from £78
* Accommodation was provided by The Home Hotel Zurich (£165 B&B), Hilton Lake Como (€270 B&B), NH Collection Torino Piazza Carlina (£203 B&B) and 25hours Terminus Nord in Paris (€179 room-only).
There's no feeling quite like speeding out of a tunnel, the rush of air and flood of light. Trains are becoming an increasingly popular mode of transportation for travelers, with a 7% rise in UK train travel expected by 2025. For this writer, slow-train travel is the perfect antidote to the fast-paced world we live in.
Our journey began on a crisp winter's day, as we set off from London on a slow-train adventure through the Swiss Alps and Italian lakes. With five countries to pass through and almost entirely scenic daytime trains, it promised to be an unforgettable experience. As we chugged out of the tunnel and into the French countryside, the snow-covered fields and hills stretched out before us like a monochrome photograph.
The train rumbled on, passing through stations and platforms with ease, crossing borders without any hassle or fuss. The passport control process was a breeze, with immigration police barely giving it a second thought. "You've traveled a lot," one officer remarked, with a wry smile and a nod to his German shepherd. We replied with a simple "legally", just to cover our backs.
As we entered Switzerland, the scenery shifted dramatically, with vertiginous gorges, frothing rivers, and snow-capped peaks unfolding before us like an oil painting come to life. The train climbed steadily up into the Alps via the famous Gotthard "spirals," offering breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains.
At Göschenen, we stopped for lunch in the picturesque former garrison town of Andermatt, now a chic ski retreat. The snow was thick and the air crisp, with a monochrome quality that made us feel as though we'd stepped into a photograph. Our meal at Biselli was excellent, with glasses of Swiss Ticino red wine adding to the convivial atmosphere.
As we continued our journey, Italy beckoned in the distance, its clear skies and terracotta valley towns stretching out like a warm invitation. At Chiasso, we crossed into Italy for the first time, enjoying a welcome drop in prices for cappuccinos (from 5CFH to €2) and a sight of one of Italy's most famous lakes up ahead.
Our final stop was Lake Como, where we caught the last of the light with an easy stroll around the perimeter of the lake. The ornate street lamps lined the water's edge like pearls, while in the distance, the funicular up to Brunate shone with a string of golden lights that dangled down the slope like lost jewelry.
The next morning, we packed our bags and took coffee at the station before heading into Turin, one of Italy's underappreciated cities. We stumbled upon a vibrant student city, where 1920s art deco neon signs clung to 18th-century baroque buildings that housed vintage shops run by students dressed as if they were in the 1990s.
We rounded out our first night with an apéritif at the classic Caffè Università, its frayed edges and charmingly outmoded daily buffet a testament to its enduring popularity. The next morning, we caught the TGV back to Paris, drifting in and out of sleep as we took in one last glimpse of the Italian Alps.
As we reached our Parisian pit stop, day was folding in on itself, and soon enough, we were slumped back on the Eurostar, flanked by bags of clinking wine bottles cushioned by crushed panettone. The Channel tunnel loomed ahead, leaving all that light – and the beauty of the Swiss Alps – behind us.
Travel details:
* Interrail passes: £255 for youths, £339 for adults, £305 for seniors (under-12s travel free)
* Return Eurostar from London to Paris starts from £78
* Accommodation was provided by The Home Hotel Zurich (£165 B&B), Hilton Lake Como (€270 B&B), NH Collection Torino Piazza Carlina (£203 B&B) and 25hours Terminus Nord in Paris (€179 room-only).