The article discusses the decline of traditional pie and mash shops in London, which were once a staple of working-class cuisine. The author visits BJ's Pie and Mash, one of the oldest surviving shops in the area, to learn more about its history and traditions.
BJ's has been in operation since 1982, when it was founded by Benjamin Jacobi, who bought an old pet shop in Barking Road and opened a pie and mash shop. The shop quickly became popular with local workers, who would come there for a quick and affordable meal. Over the years, BJ's has adapted to changing tastes and consumer preferences, but Jacobi remains committed to traditional recipes and methods.
One of the challenges facing traditional pie and mash shops is the rise of online food critics and bloggers, some of whom are skeptical about the shop's offerings. Jacobi acknowledges that some critics may view pie and mash as a relic of the past or an inferior alternative to more modern cuisine.
Despite these challenges, Jacobi remains optimistic about the future of pie and mash shops. He believes that traditional recipes and methods are essential to maintaining the authenticity and appeal of the dish. "I like the ones that strictly just do pie and mash and nothing else," he says. "The core audience they have, people who visit pie and mash shops, don't want them to change and get quite angry when they do."
The article also touches on the issue of TSG (Traditional Speciality Guaranteed) status, which would recognize traditional pie and mash recipes as a protected part of British cuisine. Some MPs have called for this status, but Jacobi is skeptical about its potential impact.
Ultimately, the future of pie and mash shops in London depends on the ability to adapt to changing tastes and consumer preferences while maintaining their commitment to tradition and authenticity. As Dimitri, a food writer, notes, "The core audience they have, people who visit pie and mash shops, don't want them to change and get quite angry when they do."
BJ's has been in operation since 1982, when it was founded by Benjamin Jacobi, who bought an old pet shop in Barking Road and opened a pie and mash shop. The shop quickly became popular with local workers, who would come there for a quick and affordable meal. Over the years, BJ's has adapted to changing tastes and consumer preferences, but Jacobi remains committed to traditional recipes and methods.
One of the challenges facing traditional pie and mash shops is the rise of online food critics and bloggers, some of whom are skeptical about the shop's offerings. Jacobi acknowledges that some critics may view pie and mash as a relic of the past or an inferior alternative to more modern cuisine.
Despite these challenges, Jacobi remains optimistic about the future of pie and mash shops. He believes that traditional recipes and methods are essential to maintaining the authenticity and appeal of the dish. "I like the ones that strictly just do pie and mash and nothing else," he says. "The core audience they have, people who visit pie and mash shops, don't want them to change and get quite angry when they do."
The article also touches on the issue of TSG (Traditional Speciality Guaranteed) status, which would recognize traditional pie and mash recipes as a protected part of British cuisine. Some MPs have called for this status, but Jacobi is skeptical about its potential impact.
Ultimately, the future of pie and mash shops in London depends on the ability to adapt to changing tastes and consumer preferences while maintaining their commitment to tradition and authenticity. As Dimitri, a food writer, notes, "The core audience they have, people who visit pie and mash shops, don't want them to change and get quite angry when they do."