The Shaston Arms, a newly restored Soho boozer that promises to bring back the old-school pub experience with its menu of classic comfort food and craft beers. The brainchild of hospitality tycoon Steve Drake – the man behind the celebrated Devonshire in nearby Piccadilly – this trendy new eatery is touted as the 'cool kid' on the block, a hip take on the traditional watering hole that's sure to attract the Instagram-savvy crowd.
But can it really deliver? The reviewer, who dined at the Shaston Arms during its soft opening period, finds itself somewhat disappointed with what they discover. Behind its polished facade and rock 'n' roll art, the restaurant feels more like a sterile afterthought than an authentic revival of the classic pub experience. Gone are the days of rowdy patrons, pool tables, and raucous laughter – replaced by a menu of 'finesse' that reads like a list of buzzwords from trendy food blogs.
The reviewer starts off on the right foot with their scallop-topped mash, which they describe as "delicious" but feels somewhat overwrought. A few bites into the dish and it becomes clear that the kitchen is more interested in being 'on trend' than in delivering genuinely tasty food. The accompanying smoked fish roe, while a pleasant touch, only serves to highlight just how heavy-handed the cooking can be – does a serving of £16 red mullet really need 4.5g of smoked roe on top?
But it's not just the food that leaves the reviewer underwhelmed; the service is woefully lacking in hospitality. With no one checking in to see if they wanted another drink, changing cutlery, or even making eye contact, the reviewer feels like an invisible presence throughout their meal – and the service charge on top of a three-course bill that costs upwards of £35-£40 per head only adds insult to injury.
In the end, it's clear that the Shaston Arms has yet to find its footing as a restaurant. While it may be trying to follow in the footsteps of the Devonshire, with all its trappings of 'cool modern hospitality', it ends up feeling like just another overpriced eatery in the area – one that fails to deliver on both taste and service. Until they can iron out their act, this reviewer would rather stick with Wetherspoons' crisps (at least those are reliably priced at a fraction of the cost).
But can it really deliver? The reviewer, who dined at the Shaston Arms during its soft opening period, finds itself somewhat disappointed with what they discover. Behind its polished facade and rock 'n' roll art, the restaurant feels more like a sterile afterthought than an authentic revival of the classic pub experience. Gone are the days of rowdy patrons, pool tables, and raucous laughter – replaced by a menu of 'finesse' that reads like a list of buzzwords from trendy food blogs.
The reviewer starts off on the right foot with their scallop-topped mash, which they describe as "delicious" but feels somewhat overwrought. A few bites into the dish and it becomes clear that the kitchen is more interested in being 'on trend' than in delivering genuinely tasty food. The accompanying smoked fish roe, while a pleasant touch, only serves to highlight just how heavy-handed the cooking can be – does a serving of £16 red mullet really need 4.5g of smoked roe on top?
But it's not just the food that leaves the reviewer underwhelmed; the service is woefully lacking in hospitality. With no one checking in to see if they wanted another drink, changing cutlery, or even making eye contact, the reviewer feels like an invisible presence throughout their meal – and the service charge on top of a three-course bill that costs upwards of £35-£40 per head only adds insult to injury.
In the end, it's clear that the Shaston Arms has yet to find its footing as a restaurant. While it may be trying to follow in the footsteps of the Devonshire, with all its trappings of 'cool modern hospitality', it ends up feeling like just another overpriced eatery in the area – one that fails to deliver on both taste and service. Until they can iron out their act, this reviewer would rather stick with Wetherspoons' crisps (at least those are reliably priced at a fraction of the cost).