The Shaston Arms, London W1: 'Just because you can do things doesn't mean you should do them' – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

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As I sat in the repurposed bookshelf at the back of the Shaston Arms, waiting for my £16 plate of red mullet to arrive, I couldn't help but ponder the so-called "pub revival" in cool modern hospitality. It's a trend that has taken hold, with establishments like the Devonshire near Piccadilly winning plaudits and attracting celebrity fans. So, it's little surprise that others have jumped on the bandwagon, attempting to revive their local pubs by giving them a polish.

The Shaston Arms is one such example. This "old-school boozer" boasts a polished room with strategically placed rock'n'roll art, beers with quirky names on tap, and a menu that offers fennel and escarole caponata alongside more traditional pub fare like mash with smoked cod's roe. The cooking here is ambitious, with dishes like creamy mash topped with scallops and curry leaves, but also heavy-handed – the onion rings were overpowering, and I couldn't help but think that a simple accompaniment of salted fish roe was unnecessary.

The biggest problem with the Shaston Arms lies in its attempt to be both old-school and cool. The service, however, is woefully lacking. The staff seem completely disconnected from their customers, failing to check if anyone wants another drink or even noticing when diners are ready to leave. It's a stark contrast to the more refined dining experiences offered by other establishments.

When I asked for the bill, I was shocked to discover that my £35-£40 three-course meal had ballooned to an eye-watering £144 – with an additional £16 added on for "service". All in all, it felt like a rip-off. And at Wetherspoons, they can get away with selling crisps for a few quid.

The Shaston Arms may have managed to pull off the look of a well-restored pub, but its execution is far from perfect. It's not quite clear if this establishment aims to be an authentic old-school boozer or a hip restaurant, resulting in a confusing dining experience that left me feeling underwhelmed and overcharged.

Price Range: £35-£40 per head for three courses, plus drinks & service

Opening Hours: Lunch Tues-Sat, noon-2.30pm; Sun noon-4.30pm; Dinner Mon-Sat, 5.30-9.30 pm
 
I was so disappointed to hear about the Shaston Arms experience 🤕. £144 for a meal is crazy! I get that they're trying to be retro-chic, but it's just not working out. The staff seemed really off-key too, completely spaced out from their customers... what a bummer 😔. I mean, you can't even ask for another drink without them noticing? It's like they're expecting everyone to magically know when to leave 🙄. And the prices? Ridiculous! Wetherspoons at least tells you how much crisps will set you back 💸. This place needs a serious revamp, stat! 👀
 
Man... I feel like the Shaston Arms is trying to be all things to everyone 🤔. It's like they're chasing a trend instead of serving up what's real. You know? Like when you see those "authentic" restaurants and pubs on Instagram, but when you actually go in, it's just a bunch of wannabes trying too hard 📸.

They need to find their own vibe and stick with it, rather than trying to fit into someone else's idea of what's cool. And that price tag? That's just crazy talk 💸. You can't put a value on the kind of experience you're going for - if they want to be seen as upscale, then charge like it 🤑.

The thing is, it's not about being old-school or new; it's about being genuine and true to yourself 💖. Don't try to fit into someone else's mold, 'cause that's just gonna leave you feeling lost and overpriced 😩.
 
I just had the weirdest experience at this "pub" and I'm still trying to figure it out 🤔. They're trying so hard to be both old-school cool, but honestly, it feels like they're stuck in a middle ground that's just meh 😐. The food is decent, don't get me wrong, but the prices are OUT OF CONTROL 💸! I mean, £144 for a 3-course meal? No thank you 🚫. And the service? Forget about it... they seemed completely disconnected from us. It felt like we were just an afterthought 🤷‍♀️. I guess what I'm saying is, if you want to revive a pub, just do it right, you know? Don't try to be something you're not 😊.
 
🤔 I mean, what's up with these modern pubs trying to be both retro and trendy? It's like they're trying to serve fish 'n' chips but also Instagrammable art on the walls 📸. And don't even get me started on the prices – £144 for a three-course meal? That's just highway robbery 💸. I went to Wetherspoons last week and got a full meal with drinks for under 50 quid, so when you're paying that much, it feels like you're being ripped off 😒. The Shaston Arms might look pretty on the outside, but the food and service are just okay – not bad, not great 🤷‍♂️. Maybe they should focus on just doing one thing right instead of trying to be everything to everyone? 🤔
 
omg u gotta try the new £16 plate of red mullet at the Shaston Arms lol they're literally jumping on the "pub revival" trend but idk if it's all just a cash-grab i mean the service is super lacking and the food is hit or miss - i loved the fennel and escarole caponata tho! 🤔🍴

but seriously, £144 for 3 courses? that's like, highway robbery fam 💸💳 they're trying to be all old-school cool but it feels super inconsistent. either go full on pub vibes or elevate the game, you know? 🤷‍♀️ i'd def come back for another meal if they ironed out some of these issues tho 👌🍴
 
I'm not a fan of these pub revivals that are popping up all over the place 🤔. They're just trying to be something they're not - old-school cool, but with a modern twist. It's like they're trying to have their cake and eat it too. The Shaston Arms is a perfect example of this. I mean, £144 for a three-course meal? That's just ridiculous! 🤑 And the service? Forget about it. It's like the staff are just going through the motions. If you want a good pub experience, go to a real one that's been around for ages. At least they know how to do things properly. 👎
 
[Image of a confused expression with a " Wait, what?" caption]

Service staff are like, "Umm... what's up? 🤷‍♂️"

[GIF of a person trying to decipher a bill, with the price increasing exponentially]

£144? Who needs that much money? 💸

[A meme of a pub with a price tag on it, with the price being £1.44 million ( instead of £16 per plate)]
 
🤔 I went to the Shaston Arms thinking it'd be a cool spot for a casual meal but honestly, it felt like a rip-off. £144 for three courses? That's just not right. They're trying too hard to be both old-school and trendy at the same time, which doesn't work. The service was super lacking too - staff seemed oblivious to our table. 👀 I mean, how hard is it to check if someone wants another drink or if they're ready to leave? It's not like they were busy serving anyone else. And don't even get me started on the prices... Wetherspoons can do better than that. 🍺
 
🤔 The Shaston Arms is like that one friend who's trying too hard to be cool but ends up being awkward 😂. I mean, who tries to put rock'n'roll art in a pub? It's just not needed 🎨. And don't even get me started on the prices - £144 for a meal? That's like buying a new laptop and still having cash left over 💸. They need to dial it back a notch and focus on serving good food at a reasonable price. I'd rather go to Wetherspoons for a decent plate of fish and chips than pay an arm and a leg for mediocre grub 🤦‍♂️.
 
🤔 just went to that new Shaston Arms pub and man... they're trying too hard to be cool 🎸. it's like they took all the old-school vibes from the 70s/80s and mixed them with some fancy-schmancy restaurant stuff, but they couldn't quite pull it off. service was super lacking 🤦‍♂️ and don't even get me started on the prices... £144 for a meal? that's just crazy 😲. maybe stick to your Wetherspoons crisps 🍟
 
I'm not sure about this pub revival trend... 🤔 I mean, it sounds like The Shaston Arms is trying to be both old-school and cool, but it just doesn't feel authentic. £144 for a three-course meal? That's crazy! 😱 It's like they're taking the best parts of an old-school pub and putting them in a hip restaurant. And don't even get me started on the service... completely disconnected from customers. I mean, what's the point of having rock'n'roll art if you can't even get a simple drink order right? 🎸😒
 
🤔 I'm not sure if the Shaston Arms is more of a case for gentrification or an example of small businesses trying too hard to keep up with the times. They're clearly aiming for that "cool modern hospitality" vibe, but it's hard to deny that their pricing strategy is nothing short of exploitative. £144 for a three-course meal? That's not just overcharging, that's highway robbery! 🚨 It's like they're taking advantage of customers who want to support local businesses, but can't afford it. On the other hand, you could say that the Shaston Arms is just trying to adapt to changing times and cater to a more diverse crowd. The question remains: at what cost? 🤑
 
omg did you know i just got the most amazing pair of sneakers that are literally so comfy i feel like im walking on clouds 🤩 anyways back to this pub review... i mean its like they have a solid concept going but execution is key and im not sure if they pulled it off 144 quid for a meal is like wth what even is that kinda price tag for a pub?
 
🤔 I gotta say, £144 for a meal at the Shaston Arms is straight up ridiculous 🤑. I mean, you can get a nice plate of red mullet for £16, but adding on an extra £40 just seems excessive. And don't even get me started on the onion rings – salted fish roe or not, they're still overkill 🤮.

I think what's really going on here is that the Shaston Arms is trying to be both trendy and traditional at the same time, but it's ending up being neither here nor there 😐. I mean, if you want a hip restaurant, go somewhere else. And if you want a real old-school pub experience, Wetherspoons will do just fine 🙄.

The whole thing feels like a marketing gimmick to me – "we're this and we're that, come see us!" 🎉 But at the end of the day, it's all about the food (or lack thereof) and the prices. And let's be real, £144 is just not worth it 🤷‍♀️.
 
🤔 I've been to some cool pubs in London lately and the Shaston Arms seems like another one trying to revamp the old-school vibe 🍺. Problem is, it's not quite clear what they're going for - do they want to be a hip restaurant or an authentic pub? Either way, their execution falls short 🤦‍♂️. The service was super lacking and the bill was crazy 💸. £144 for three courses and drinks is just too much 💔. Wetherspoons can get away with cheap crisps but this place overcharges you for food that's not even that special 🤷‍♂️. Overall, I'd say it's a confusing experience that left me feeling underwhelmed 👎.
 
🤔 I gotta say, I'm not really sure what's up with this "pub revival" trend. On one hand, it's awesome that people are trying to give local pubs a fresh new look and make them more appealing to the younger crowd. But on the other hand, some of these places just feel like they're trying too hard to be cool. It's like they're wearing a pair of dad jeans that are three sizes too small - it's awkward and uncomfortable for everyone involved.

The Shaston Arms is a great example of this. They've clearly put a lot of thought into making the place look retro-chic, but in doing so, they've lost sight of what really matters: good food, good service, and a welcoming atmosphere. I mean, £144 for a three-course meal? That's just ridiculous! And don't even get me started on the "service" charge... it feels like they're taking advantage of people.

I think what we need is a middle ground here - places that can strike a balance between old-school charm and modern amenities. Maybe something like a vintage-inspired menu with a twist, or a cozy atmosphere that still allows for good conversation and connection with the people around you. Anything less than that, and I'm just gonna stick to my Wetherspoons crisps 😉
 
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