A visit to The Shaston Arms in London's Soho raises an intriguing question: how far can you take the "pub revival" trend while still retaining its essence? This newly revamped boozer boasts a tasteful decor and menu that proudly proclaims, "It's a pub just like pubs used to be." However, I'm not entirely convinced by this assertion.
Upon entering, I found myself seated in a spotless but drably decorated room, reminiscent of a repurposed bookshelf. The atmosphere was sterile, lacking the boisterous energy typically associated with classic pubs. To my dismay, our server seemed to be absent for much of the meal, despite the restaurant being busy.
While some dishes showed promise – such as the beautifully presented scallop-topped mash with curry leaves and a delicate bowl of pasta with squid ink rice – others fell flat. I struggled to understand why heavily smoked fish roe was paired with the unremarkable onion rings on my plate.
It's clear that The Shaston Arms is attempting to strike a balance between traditional pub fare and modern, upscale dining. Unfortunately, this dual approach often results in confusion. A £16 main course seems steep for what amounts to an uninspired rendition of a classic dish. Moreover, the kitchen appears hesitant to trust its ingredients, resulting in heavy-handed seasoning and over-reliance on condiments.
The service, too, left much to be desired. Our server seemed woefully uninterested in attending to our needs, which made for an awkward dining experience. It's surprising that a restaurant charging £144 per person – including service – wouldn't have even the most basic hospitality trained staff.
In conclusion, while The Shaston Arms strives to recreate the charm of classic pubs, it ultimately falls short. This over-reliance on gimmicks and a lack of focus on genuine hospitality mean that this establishment will not be setting any new standards anytime soon.
Upon entering, I found myself seated in a spotless but drably decorated room, reminiscent of a repurposed bookshelf. The atmosphere was sterile, lacking the boisterous energy typically associated with classic pubs. To my dismay, our server seemed to be absent for much of the meal, despite the restaurant being busy.
While some dishes showed promise – such as the beautifully presented scallop-topped mash with curry leaves and a delicate bowl of pasta with squid ink rice – others fell flat. I struggled to understand why heavily smoked fish roe was paired with the unremarkable onion rings on my plate.
It's clear that The Shaston Arms is attempting to strike a balance between traditional pub fare and modern, upscale dining. Unfortunately, this dual approach often results in confusion. A £16 main course seems steep for what amounts to an uninspired rendition of a classic dish. Moreover, the kitchen appears hesitant to trust its ingredients, resulting in heavy-handed seasoning and over-reliance on condiments.
The service, too, left much to be desired. Our server seemed woefully uninterested in attending to our needs, which made for an awkward dining experience. It's surprising that a restaurant charging £144 per person – including service – wouldn't have even the most basic hospitality trained staff.
In conclusion, while The Shaston Arms strives to recreate the charm of classic pubs, it ultimately falls short. This over-reliance on gimmicks and a lack of focus on genuine hospitality mean that this establishment will not be setting any new standards anytime soon.