The Shaston Arms, London W1: 'Just because you can do things doesn't mean you should do them' – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

A visit to The Shaston Arms in London's Soho raises an intriguing question: how far can you take the "pub revival" trend while still retaining its essence? This newly revamped boozer boasts a tasteful decor and menu that proudly proclaims, "It's a pub just like pubs used to be." However, I'm not entirely convinced by this assertion.

Upon entering, I found myself seated in a spotless but drably decorated room, reminiscent of a repurposed bookshelf. The atmosphere was sterile, lacking the boisterous energy typically associated with classic pubs. To my dismay, our server seemed to be absent for much of the meal, despite the restaurant being busy.

While some dishes showed promise – such as the beautifully presented scallop-topped mash with curry leaves and a delicate bowl of pasta with squid ink rice – others fell flat. I struggled to understand why heavily smoked fish roe was paired with the unremarkable onion rings on my plate.

It's clear that The Shaston Arms is attempting to strike a balance between traditional pub fare and modern, upscale dining. Unfortunately, this dual approach often results in confusion. A £16 main course seems steep for what amounts to an uninspired rendition of a classic dish. Moreover, the kitchen appears hesitant to trust its ingredients, resulting in heavy-handed seasoning and over-reliance on condiments.

The service, too, left much to be desired. Our server seemed woefully uninterested in attending to our needs, which made for an awkward dining experience. It's surprising that a restaurant charging £144 per person – including service – wouldn't have even the most basic hospitality trained staff.

In conclusion, while The Shaston Arms strives to recreate the charm of classic pubs, it ultimately falls short. This over-reliance on gimmicks and a lack of focus on genuine hospitality mean that this establishment will not be setting any new standards anytime soon.
 
I gotta say, I'm a bit skeptical about this "pub revival" trend myself 🤔. It's all well and good to want to bring back the old-school vibe, but sometimes it feels like they're just trying too hard instead of trusting their own unique voice. I mean, £16 for a main course that's not even that special? That's just not right, mate 😐. And don't even get me started on the service – it sounds like the staff were just phoning it in. What really gets me is when places try to reinvent the wheel instead of building upon what made them great in the first place 🙄. I'd love to see The Shaston Arms take a step back, regroup, and figure out what makes their pub tick 💡.
 
I gotta say, £144 for dinner is just crazy 💸🍴, you're right to question their pricing considering the service was pretty subpar too 😐. I've been to some 'pubs' like this before and they can feel a bit forced, all about the Instagram vibes rather than actual pub atmosphere 📸. Still, gotta give them points for effort, and maybe with a few tweaks they'll get it right 👍
 
🤔 I went there too like last month and yeah I agree with you about the fish roe & onion rings combo 😐. But you know what really gets me is when pubs try to make everything 'modern' but still call it a pub 🍺. Like, if they're gonna do squid ink rice on a pasta dish can't they just stick to proper fish & chips like everyone else? And £16 for the main course is a bit steep, especially considering you get the whole plate and all 🤑. Overall I think The Shaston Arms wants to be a posh pub but ends up being just kinda...meh 😐
 
🤔 I'm all for a good pub revival trend, but sometimes these places get it backwards. Like, The Shaston Arms is trying to recreate the classic vibe, but it just feels like a shallow imitation 🚮. Where's the soul? The character? The boozy energy that makes you wanna come back for more? It's all so... sterile and fancy 💼. And don't even get me started on the food – £16 for a subpar main course is just outrageous! 😂 I mean, if they want to do it right, they should focus on perfecting their recipes rather than throwing in a bunch of trendy toppings 🤯. And what's up with the service? You'd think a fancy restaurant like that would have at least some basic hospitality trained staff 👋. Overall, I'm just not convinced – The Shaston Arms is more gimmick than genuine pub experience 🎩
 
I just got back from The Shaston Arms in Soho and I gotta say 🤔, they're trying way too hard to be like the old pubs 🍺. It's like they're stuck between being fancy and still being a pub 😂. The decor is super clean but it feels empty and sterile - where's the character? 👻. And don't even get me started on the service 💁‍♀️, our server was MIA for most of the meal! 🤷‍♂️. I mean, £16 for a main course that's just...meh 🤔. The kitchen needs to chill out and trust their ingredients, you know? ⚡️. And £144 for service is just crazy 💸. All in all, it was a disappointing experience 😐.
 
Honestly tho 👀 I was really looking forward to trying out The Shaston Arms but after reading this review I'm defo gonna think twice 🤔. £16 for a main course is straight weird, even if it does sound like they're trying to go old school with the menu. And yikes, £144 per person? that's just insane 💸. Service-wise, I've had some bad experiences at fancy restaurants before where the staff seemed more interested in checking their phones than making sure you're having a good time 📱. All in all, it sounds like they need to dial back on the gimmicks and focus on serving up solid food with decent service 👌
 
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